Trip Review: Custom Ireland
The Gross Family from Philadelphia with 2 teenage boys (19 and 16) explored Ireland this month. The Family Traveler created a custom itinerary for this well-traveled family based on their desire to explore the southern coast line of the Emerald Isle, have authentic experiences and stay in diverse accommodations within a specific budget request. The trip started on the west coast with a flight into Shannon Airport and a 3-night stay at the Ballinalacken Castle Country House Hotel in Doolin. The family enjoyed the hour ride to the hotel on winding roads especially since they are seasoned drivers of the left-hand side. They thought the food and hospitality at Ballinalacken were great despite slightly worn rooms. A tour of the ancient castle located on the hotel grounds was a treat. Another highlight was a sunset dinner at O’Donohue Pub overlooking Fanore Beach in the heart of the Burren with great seafood and views. They recommend the Burren Perfumery for natural products using native herbs and also for afternoon tea. The Cliffs of Moher was the best part of the Burren Way despite the challenging walk along the sea cliffs from Doolin to the Visitor Centre. They used the bus for the return. This active family also took an awesome Lord of the Rings Burren Tour mountain bike ride which they said required a fair amount of skill and effort. They got to watch peat fuel being made and explored the Pol na Gollum (Hole of Gollum), the longest cave in Ireland. It is believed that the Burren landscape and this cave inspired J.R.R. Tolkien to write the Lord of the Rings. The Fleadh Festival in nearby Ennis which showcases traditional Irish music and dance was fine, but surprisingly missable. The car ride to Killarney was long, but tolerable because of a stop in charming Adare for lunch. The family recommends checking out the ferry from Kilrush which crosses the Shannon Estuary to shorten the drive. In Killarney, they stayed for 3 nights in a 2-bedroom apartment at the Muckross Park Hotel and Spa which is located right in the national park. The location was great because Killarney town is a bit over run by tourists. Their review of the apartment was mixed since their view wasn’t that great overlooking a parking lot (although an hour long rainbow was nice!), but they did like having a kitchen. They loved the hotel spa and free bike rentals. Hiking the Gap of Dunloe was a commitment (1/2 day at least), but totally worthwhile. Their trip to the Dingle Peninsula was also special and the restaurants in town were a nice way to cap off to the drive. Their journey to Kilkenny was long, but they stopped in Cork to break up the trip. Their said their lunch at the English Market was not worthwhile. They said that Kilkenny was a surprising highlight. They stayed at the nearby Lyrath Estate Hotel for 3 nights. The town had great pubs, restaurants and music. The family enjoyed the Kilkenny Castle and grounds as well as the Rothe House, a 16th century merchant’s townhouse which is now a museum and gardens. Their experience at the hotel had some contrasts. The family thought the property was beautiful with a unique combination of old and new architecture. They had nicely appointed rooms with great views from the 4th floor. But some of the recreational facilities are in need of a serious update including the gym and pool. At least there were scenic places to run on the property and the spa was lovely (although not discovered until late in their stay). The breakfast spread was excellent, despite being overly busy and loud with lots of young families. The trip ended in Dublin with a 2-night stay at the Brooks Hotel. The hotel location was incredible and staff was so friendly. The famous Guinness tour which was totally commercial and yet really fun. Overall, the family had a fantastic vacation and noted that our recommendations were highly appreciated!